Last month I started what I hope will be a monthly series on the construction of my layout. Knowing my penchant for procrastination and the ease with which best laid plans are upset by life and other obligations, I made sure that I had enough material to cover at least the first few months of posts. So here’s the track plan, right on schedule. Continue reading “Building a Model Railroad – Part 2: Layout Design”
Well another year has come and gone with very few posts from me. But after three long years 2020 looks to be the point where I can finally begin to put time and money into building a layout. In fact, the benchwork is 90% complete though at the moment it’s not in its correct configuration and is serving as a series of work tables for the last bit of construction in the basement. If everything goes to plan I’m hoping to have the prep work done and be hanging the backdrop and valance over the next couple weeks. In the meantime I thought it might be worthwhile to fill you in on my plans.
As I was getting ready to paint a batch of wheels I got to thinking that I haven’t done a post on how I do so. I went back and checked and sure enough I don’t see one. So here you go.
HO scale Model Railroading has come a long way in the last decade or so. The fidelity and quality of the products available to the average modeler is pretty staggering. However, there are still two major weak points on every single locomotive and piece of rolling stock: Couplers and wheels.
I think it’s reasonable to argue that the SD40-2 was the defining example of 2nd generation diesel locomotives in North America. They were purchased in huge numbers by most Class 1 railroads and have developed a reputation for reliability over decades of operation. Today they’re less common on Class 1’s, but many are being rebuilt to extend their lives and quite a few are well into second careers on regional and short lines. It has therefore been rather unfortunate that HO scale modelers have never had a really good plastic model of the SD40-2 (I’d argue that there’s never been a really good brass model either, because, well. Brass.) Many companies have made an attempt at the SD40-2, but most have gotten stuff wrong (Athearn, Intermountain) and no one has made a stab at the huge amount of variations that occurred over the twelve year production run (Kato). Athearn could and should have put an SD40-2 in their Genesis line to go along with the GP models they’ve been releasing but they never did.
Therefore, it was no small thing when I cam home from work about a year ago to find a box from Scale Trains sitting on the stoop. Inside, I hoped, was the SD40-2 so many of us have been waiting for.
My dad and I took this series of photos in Steilacoom on what appears to be a cold, late fall or early spring morning. That’s me standing on the rip-rap in the blue jacket but I’m unsure of the exact day or even year. I’m 99% certain we’re looking at the Coast Starlight though if this is before May of 1997 it could be the Pioneer. I had that jacket for ages so it doesn’t provide much of a timestamp however I don’t think I look old enough to be in high school. Based on that alone I’d say it’s pre-’97.
Happy New Year. It’s that time once again when I buckle down and try to get Milepost 15 on a regular update schedule. We’ll see how long that lasts.
There’s been a lot going on over the past year but not much of it was model (or real) railroad related. Last February Beth and I bought a house which meant that most of 2016 and most of my money was dedicated to moving, unpacking and renovations. The house is a small cape with a single car garage and a large addition off the back. It’s not exactly what we wanted, I would have preferred a two car garage and a basement with full-height ceilings, Beth wanted a colonial (because she wasn’t going to be the one perched two stories up on a ladder when the gutters needed cleaning). That said, the house is in excellent condition and apart from a few incidental things just needs a bit of updating. We got it for less than we had been planning to spend and were able to put 20% down. All in all I think we did pretty well.
This is perhaps the most comprehensive piece on airbrushing you’re going to find online. It’s oriented towards armor and aircraft modeling, but most of the techniques are applicable for just about anything.
This is a post I’ve been meaning to write for a long time. After all, airbrushing is probably my favorite single aspect of modeling. And, with all the airbrushing talk that’s been swirling about the interwebs lately, it seems like the time is right.
So what is this? It’s a deep – I hesitate to say exhaustive – dive into many, many facets of airbrushing, from airbrush selection to paint selection to mixing paints to spray discipline.
Here are some in-post links if you want to skip ahead:
- I – Choose Your Weapon
- II – On Selecting Primers
- III – Paints
- IV – Thinner and Air Pressure
- V – How to Airbrush
Part I: Choose Your Weapon
A – Do I even need an airbrush?
In my opinion, yes. It’s possible to limp along in this hobby with paintbrushes and rattlecans, and even thrive in certain genres like figures…
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The 2016 New England/Northeast RPM is wrapping up as I’m writing this. The meet moved to a new location this year and it seems like it was a success. There were a lot of models on display and quite a few interesting clinics. The new venue isn’t perfect, but I think it’s an improvement over the old location.